Welcome to the Backdoor Guide to Surfing

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Surfing is an impressive sport that requires an incredible amount of athleticism  and skill. Although surfing can be a year-round sport, cooperation from the weather is necessary for a rad day on the waves. In particular, surfers keep a close eye on the wind, tide, and swell before planning a surf trip.  Growing up as a surfer's daughter, I have been fortunate enough to learn about this sport. Although I am not an avid surfer like my dad, I do enjoy getting out on the board during family vacations. In this ePortfolio, I hope to share with you some of the knowledge I have acquired over the years with the goal of preparing you for an epic day out on the waves!  

Grom Crossing

Here is a little history on my dad, Mark, and how he got into surfing. 

How did you get into surfing and how old were you when you started? 

"I was in my late teens when I started surfing. I was on a family vacation in Hawaii, my brother and I rented some boards and just went out there. I've never had a surf lesson - not to say that's a good idea - but if you spend enough time out there, you'll start to get the hang of it."

What type of board is your favourite? 

"I'm pretty happy with the board I have right now.. it's a 6'5" thrust or quad fin set up with a rounded pin. It's a shortboard" 

What is your favourite part about surfing? 

"Being able to disconnect from reality. Being in the moment. And the adventure - when you're finding new surf sports and scoring waves."

Who is your surfing idol? 

"The Goat... Kelly Slater." 

What was your sketchiest moment surfing? 

"I had an experience in Hawaii that was pretty heavy… I was at a place called Kalihiwai, a really heavily localized surf spot. My friend and I were out there on a really good day. When you catch the wave, you’re right in front of a cliff… so if you don’t make it, you have a good chance of getting washed up into jagged lava rocks. Once you’re on the wave, you make a turn and go down the line, missing the cliff. I went out on a really good wave, but a local dropped in on me. I had to straighten off and jump off. I got worked, it’s a heavy wave. I remember thinking I was going to hit the rocks… but when I came to the surface, I had been pushed around the cliff, just feet from the jagged rocks. It was a heavy wave and a bad situation, but it could have been a lot worse.”

Where is your favourite place to surf? 

"Where? That's a very hard question... but it would have to be Hawaii. My favourite place has always been Kauai. Just because of the variety of waves, the consistency and quality, you know? It's warm, clean, and beautiful, too."

What is your best advice for someone who is learning to surf? 

"Don't give up! Honestly, you just have to surf as much as you can. The waves aren't always there and even when they are, you might not be getting any. So get out there as much as you can. Learn how to read the ocean and the conditions before you head out there, that's going to help you. You don't want to be fighting the ocean, you want to be efficient. In order to do that, you have to learn the lineups - where to sit, when to take off, what waves to go for, etc. The ocean is always going to be stronger than you, so you have to maximize your energy to surf. If you're in the wrong spot, you're gonna get worked."