Weather plays a major role in surf conditions and can sometimes make for gnarly conditions. Here are some hazards you will want to consider before hanging loose on your surf trip. 

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Swell

Swell is created by a storm in the ocean, and results in a collection of waves moving away from the storm. There are three important factors to consider when looking at swell, these are: swell height, swell period, and swell direction. 

Swell Height

Swell height is measured from the trough to the peak of a wave. If you aren't familiar with these terms, see the 'Wave Anatomy' section in the 'Tube Tips' tab. Typically, the larger the swell, the larger the wave. For beginners, a swell height of 3-5 ft would be ideal for learning conditions. Experts, on the other hand, can surf swells that tower over 50 ft! 

It is important to remember that swell height is often reported as an average of the largest waves in the swell. This means that you should prepare for waves slightly larger than the reported swell.

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Swell Period 

Swell period describes the frequency of waves and is measured from crest to crest, in seconds. Typically, the longer the swell period, the stronger the waves. Swell period and swell height have a positive relationship, meaning as swell period increases, swell height does, as well. 

Here is a useful guide for determining what type of waves you will be expecting with regards to the reported swell https://magicseaweed.com/help/forecast-table/wave-period-overviewLinks to an external site.

Swell Direction 

Swell direction is just that: the direction in which the swell is moving. Swell direction is reported from the area of origin, using cardinal directions or degrees. Unobstructed, straight-line swell directions are ideal for maintaining wave height and power to your surf location. 

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Wind Direction and Speed 

Wind affects the ocean by transferring energy from the air to the water. On surf reports, wind direction is often broken down into two types: onshore winds and offshore winds. Wind speed will influence both types, strengthening their effects as the speed increases. 

Onshore Winds

Onshore winds are winds that blow from the ocean to the beach. These winds are not favourable for surfing as they tend to cause choppy and unorganized conditions.

Retrieved from https://magicseaweed.com/help/forecast-table/wind. 

Offshore Winds 

On the other hand, offshore winds blow from the beach to the ocean and are more favourable. Offshore winds 'groom' the ocean, removing chop and creating better conditions for surfing. Ideally, surfers look for spots with no wind at all. 

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Tide

Tide cycles describe the systematic rising and falling the ocean, due to the gravitation pull of the moon and sun. Typically, a tide that's too high inhibits the wave from 'feeling the bottom' causing it to break on the shore. On the other hand, a tide that's too low may expose hazards, such as a reef or rocks, causing the waves to break irregularly. Generally, surf breaks work best on a mid-incoming tide. However, that is not to say that some breaks don't prefer a slightly high or slightly low tide. The reason for this variety is due to the bathymetry of each break, that is, the unique underwater features at each spot. 

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